Showing posts with label newlyweds. Show all posts
Showing posts with label newlyweds. Show all posts

Friday, January 2, 2015

Our Travel Adventure: a 2014 Wrap Up

I had intended to do this post sooner to when we returned to the States, but my perspective may actually be better now. This was the post as it would've been if I'd published it when we got home at the end of July:

"Let's talk about culture shock. Specifically, let's talk about reverse culture shock.

Less than 24 hours after return:
Everything is HUGE. And overwhelming. Joe is thrilled to be home but I'm not so sure. After 3.5 weeks traveling in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy, I really just wanted the short flight back to London and our tiny, tiny flat. 14+ hours of flying means everything feels weird when you land. LAX is my old stomping grounds - my uni and my old apartment are visible from the runways, but it still just felt weird.

Also, parking lots. I don't know why but these stick out for me. I haven't seen a real parking lot in almost a year. In London I often wondered where people who had cars ever put their cars when they were out. No parking lots, no parking structures, not even a lot of street parking. California is the opposite. All I see are massive parking lots in front of massive stores. Stores I have always loved (Target, Costco, Ikea) but still. Everything seems so HUGE right now. I was originally planning a visit to the mall but I've backed out because it sounds WAY too overwhelming."

So now that we've been home for 5 months, here is a look back at our adventure.


Time Away: 336 days

Countries Visited: 20

Visitors from Home: 5

Checkmarks on our London & Beyond List: 63/85

In case you need a refresher, here is our original list of goals:

Cities
Cambridge, England
Geneva, Switzerland
Normandy, France
Salzburg, Austria
Stratford-Upon-Avon, England
Wales (not sure where yet)

Tours & Activities
Abbey Road
Beatles landmark
Bike tour of a major city (HelsinkiBerlinParisBarcelonaMunich)
British Library (for research, believe it or not)
Buckingham Palace (kind of)
Charles Darwin landmark
Cider mill tour
Collect a set of British edition Harry Potters (pictures to come)
Collect an international set of multi-lingual Harry Potters (pictures to come)
Cooking class (Sarah - London, Budapest, Tuscany, Florence; together - London)
Debussy landmark (France)
Drive “British”
Flying Fantastic class
Go ice-skating
Hike 10+ miles somewhere
Holi festival
Issaac Newton landmark
Led Zeppelin landmark
live dramatic performance (Sarah in October, Joe & Sarah with Momstogether)
live orchestra performance (BerlinPragueLondonVienna)
live other sporting event (tennis, cricket, rugby)
live singer/band (Sarah - Vienna Teng; Joe - Steven Wilson of Porcupine Tree, YES!)
live soccer game
London Museum of Natural History
Pink Floyd landmark
Richard Dawkins event
See a live hockey game  (Winter Classic in LA in January)
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Take a spontaneous vacation (Paris - booked 5 days ahead)
Tate/Tate Modern
Travel by train (Flam, NorwayPrague; lots of times between cities)
Westminster Abbey (front only)
Winery tour

I'm quite proud of this list, actually. We didn't tick off every item, but what this list doesn't reflect is our shifting priorities the longer we were away. Certain items were completed multiple times or in ways that make me really proud. Some things were skipped because by the end we realized we didn't really care to make them a priority. Other items became priorities later on (cocktails in London, picnicking in Waterlow park, etc) but were never added to the official list.

We didn't just travel by train to say we did it, we travelled by train to get ourselves through Spain, and from Hungary to Austria to Germany, and all around Italy. We took miniature adventures every time we changed cities because we always did it without the convenience and comfort of a car. As native Southern Californians, that was a big deal. I'm proud of the way we adjusted to using public transportation.

I'm also proud that we took advantage of London - we went to museums, we tried things, we bought tickets to shows and performances, we saw advertisements on the Tube and then actually sought out those events and participated. We aren't big city people. Participating in the life of the city was a big deal.

Certain places were skipped because that was the pragmatic decision. Greece and Poland were cut before we even committed the list to paper. Switzerland was cut very early on. But what this list doesn't show is all of the places and items we added along the way. Barcelona was on the list, but in the process we also went to Seville and Cordoba and Granada. We cut Salzburg because of rain, but we added Scotland almost at the last minute and it was one of our most relaxing getaways. Brussels was almost cut but then we got to do it with Ryan when he visited, which was even better. I didn't go to Shakespeare's birthplace (Stratford), but I did go to his birthday party.

Since we've been back, one of the questions we get most often is What was your favorite part? Really, it depends on my mood. On different days, I miss different facets of this adventure. Memories of the many places we went and things we did are sparked constantly and I miss London every single day. I think that I will for the rest of my life.

It's hard to explain to people what a year away feels like. We slid back into our normal life again, and it was both harder and easier than I'd expected. We came back broke, so we lived separately with our mothers for almost 4 months before we were financially viable enough to get our own place again. On the other hand, I was back to work teaching high school full time only 3.5 weeks after we landed in California from Rome. Since I was still writing my dissertation for my MA program, it felt like I was living two different lives at once - my London life as a student was still going while my California life as a teacher was in full swing already. I spent August and September mentally and emotionally exhausted and overwhelmed. Being back in California felt both normal and completely uncomfortable at the same time. 

After spending nearly all of my time exclusively with my husband for more than 11 months, we were living apart and had to plan to see each other almost like when we started dating. The logistics of moving out of the country and then back in aren't what people talk about. In London, there were things about my life here that I missed every single day. Now that we're back, there are parts of the life we made there that I will miss every single day. (It doesn't help that I see bits of London in so many of the movies and TV shows I watch. Or maybe it does help. I'm not really sure.) Our life here picked up where we'd left off in a way that was almost seamless, but I feel different in my life now than I would have if we hadn't gone. Maybe that was the point.

I don't know what my favorite part of our year away was. I can't tell you which city was my favorite. Sometimes they all were. Sometimes I wish I could be eating in Budapest or sitting on the deck in Split or walking through the rain in Dublin and other times I'm happy to get good Mexican food and drive my car. Sometimes none of the places we visited compares to the one place we lived (and then I miss London so much I could cry). Sometimes the part I miss most is our friends (which was true in London, too). Sometimes I miss the impromptu visits to Brewdog on the way home from school. Sometimes it's British food and Camden High Street and sometimes it's the ride on the 214 and the walk from our bus stop to our little, little flat. In our three-story townhouse now, sometimes the 1700+ square feet feel like way too much and I miss our little one-bedroom home where the full-sized bed touched the walls on three sides. Sometimes I miss exploring a new city with Joe and having nothing on our schedule but whatever we wanted to see or do there that day. Sometimes I'm just happy to be home, doing a job I love (and missed terribly for 3 years), and living close enough to see friends we've had since high school. Sometimes the London Instagram feed features a picture that includes the 24 bus or Gower Street and I miss the life I had there so badly. Then I discover that I can get mocha lattes at Coffee Bean and I don't feel so far from London anymore. There's always been a travel Sarah that was more independent and spontaneous and brave than regular Sarah, and London brought me closer to merging the two. 

The adventure was big but it was also small. The parts I think about are bus rides and tea shops and restaurants we found in cities all over Europe. I think about the time I spent alone and feeling comfortable by myself for maybe the first time ever. I wouldn't go to the movies by myself here, but I did there and it made me feel independent. I think about all of the beauty and history and the way it mixed in with feeling lonely and cold and happy and brave and accomplished. I think about the fact that I wanted to go on a big adventure and that somehow, my husband and I actually did it.

The truth is, I don't know how to answer the small talk questions about our adventure. The whole experience is way too big for small talk answers. 

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Croatia: Split

July 1 - 5, 2014

Leaving London was sad, but the blow was definitely softened when we landed in Split to begin a month of summer travel before completing our adventure back in California. There is a big difference between traveling and vacationing and on the spectrum of tourism, we have ridden closer to the former all year long. We agreed from the beginning that Croatia would be different.

Croatia has been on our list since the beginning because it is where Joe's paternal grandfather (and thus last name) came from. We had also heard nothing but glowing reviews of how beautiful it is, especially the beaches.

Requests for Croatia
Joe: Zagreb and Split
Sarah: no travel on my birthday

We picked the Radisson Blu resort in Split because it offered everything we were looking for: ocean views, private beach access, a spa, and multiple restaurants. Even though our official honeymoon was our Scandinavia trip with Manicia last August, this was our chance to take the lay-on-the-beach, room-with-a-balcony vacation that so many couples take to relax after their weddings. We sprung for the ocean-view balcony and were surprised by an upgrade from that to a suite worth twice as much on arrival.

bed looking onto part of the wraparound porch; a huge bathtub in the background

the easiest way to guarantee a smooth morning: Jack and Jill sinks

sunset panorama from the balcony


corner of the balcony

lounging
We spent five days in Split and we are not ashamed to admit that we only actually left the resort property on one of those. It was kind of like being on a cruise: everything we wanted was onboard.

Two full days were spent lounging on the hotel's private section of the beach. Joe was excited to swim in the Adriatic Sea and I was excited to finally get some sun after 10 months of scarves, pants, coats, and boots. The water was warm and unbelievably clear. The beaches were extremely rocky, which sucked, but we could stick to the hotel's platform (which was where the bar was anyway) if we wanted to avoid the rocks.











MA dissertation research, Croatian beach style

I was so excited about getting out in the sun that I (stupidly) ignored Joe's advice to put on sunscreen and ended up burning the entire front of my body. The view was too beautiful and I didn't want to turn over to get my back, so instead I got burned ankles:


When I showed this picture to Alicia she said that the sun was trying to give me a birthday present. I remarked that the sun must hate me. "No," she said, "it was just too enthusiastic about giving you a tan!"

Our evenings were spent eating dinner on the deck with this view:


Afterwards we would take advantage of the darkest sky we've had in ages to watch the stars come out and try to find satellites and constellations.


On Friday, my birthday (and fourth of July), we finally left the cocoon of the resort to explore Split proper. This walled city and sea port welcomes cruise ships while still maintaining its old world charm. We ate as a restaurant called the Chop House for lunch, which was yummy and we would recommend to people visiting the town.




This period of downtime was exactly what Joe and I wanted to ease ourselves out of London and back into the life of nomads for the month of July. This couple's retreat was beautiful and relaxing and perfect. Anyone looking for an alternative to the traditional beach spots in Hawaii and the Caribbean - Go to Split! The Dalmatian coast is gorgeous and the food is delicious. (Bonus: many of the filming locations for Game of Thrones are in Croatia, particularly King's Landing, the House of the Undying, and Marin.)



Sunday, June 29, 2014

I love Paris (in the summer)

June 23-27, 2014

If you remember from our first visit to Paris in December, you know that a second trip has been on our schedule for a long time. Just a week before leaving London for good, we finally made good on that plan. This vacation came so late mostly because we have been so busy that there was no other time to fit it in, but also so that we could meet up with Joe and Erin Rojas on their honeymoon (more on that later).

We booked the Hotel Marquis Eiffel so we could explore a different area of Paris from our first trip when we stayed across from Tuileries Garden and the Louvre. One of the best things about Paris is the ease of the metro system - it's cheap and easy and got us all around the city on both visits. Staying where we did this time meant that we could say hello to our favorite Paris landmark, the Eiffel Tower, every day.

Between our hotel and the tower were two restaurants we'd recommend, Firmine for pizza and Villa Verdi for pasta. Yes, we ate Italian twice in Paris. Forgive us.

Day 1, about 10:30 pm

On Tuesday we joined our fave bike company, Fat Tire, for a cycle ride to Claude Monet's residence in Giverny. There was an electrical failure on the train out of Paris that stalled two trains inside a tunnel and caused us a 2 hour delay and the abandonment of our Siene-side afternoon picnic, which was disappointing, but once we'd gotten to our bikes and started the straight-shot ride on a country path, everything was good again.


my bike's name was #Hashtag


The ride was smooth, flat, and straight for about 4 km and took about 40 minutes. It was beautiful and warm and the exercise felt exhilarating, especially after sitting on a stationary train for hours.

Monet's residence includes the house and flower garden, but the real sight to see is the Japanese garden. Monet lived the last half of his life here and many of his most recognizable paintings were done with a portable easel outside in the open air.





the famous water lily pond


the opposite of an impressionist painting: a focused picture

willow reflections

cloud reflections and lily pads

the Japanese bridge


Bert and Charlie: birds in paradise


the ride back

Dinner after our bike tour was well earned. We'd looked up a few restaurants and headed across the river toward them, but ended up L'Ogre instead. This meal was more expensive than we'd wanted to spend, but was completely delicious (which is the only way to justify it).

midnight light show on day 2 from across the Siene


Wednesday was our day to sleep in. We headed out in the afternoon toward the Louvre with plans to stay out for the France-Ecuador World Cup match.

Remember these shots of Tuileries Garden from December?



Well, this is what is looks like in June!



The Louvre was a must. We'd missed it on our first trip when we were staying in a hotel named for the attraction and Joe has never been. The bonus was that we'd expected it to cost about twice as much per person AND I got in free on my student ID.


this guy was jaunty and looked like a Disney character

 These statues look like they're taking selfies.


inside the entrance pyramid

After the Louvre we had time to kill before the game. We ended up Les Halles near the Pompidou Center, a fun and lively area to hang out, eat, or people watch. We picked up a Nutella and speculoos crepe from a street vendor and then got dinner at Ozo, and interesting concept restaurant in the area that is worth checking out. Then Joe found his way to an open front bar with a huge screen set up outside and settled in with locals to root for France.


Thursday had two big events on the schedule: the Maurice Ravel Museum and the USA-Germany World Cup match with Joe and Erin. Months ago, when we were researching some of the items on our London List, we discovered that the home of French impressionist composer Maurice Ravel has been maintained exactly as it was during his life and turned into a museum. Ravel composed pieces that were inspired by impressionists paintings and his friends, who were artists, dancers, and musicians.


Tours are limited to six people and can only be arranged by phone, but we got lucky and had a private tour just for us. We took a suburban train from Paris to the small town of Montfort-L'Amoury, where we had to ask the owner of the train station restaurant to call us a taxi since we had no idea how to get to the museum on foot. The town was so tiny we wouldn't have been surprised if they'd told us the cabbie had to come out from Paris.

 Ravel on his balcony, looking out toward the church.


balcony looking the other direction

a secret room to protect unfinished compositions
Probably the most exciting feature of the museum house is (obviously) Ravel's piano. Unlike so many other house museums, here you can open doors, sit on chairs, go in closets, and even play the piano. Ravel is one of Joe's favorite composer, so sitting in Ravel's chair playing Ravel's piano in the same room where he'd composed some of his most famous pieces was a really cool experience for him.

Ravel at his piano

Joe playing a bit from memory

We were only in the museum for an hour, maybe less, but we really enjoyed this off-the-beaten-path attraction that most visitors to Paris would not have spent the time on. The train rides were relaxing and the house museum was a new kind of experience from what we normally do. Also, the walk back to the train station was perfectly French. We even ate a citron tart on the way.




Joe has known Joe and Erin for over ten years since they all attended UCI together. The weekend before Paris they got married back in California and, sadly, we couldn't attend. Instead, we crashed their honeymoon! As soon as we found out that they were coming to Paris in June, we knew we wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to get together. Luckily, they were all for it!

The first part of our evening was spent watching USA play Germany in Brazil while sitting in a Canadian bar in France. Quite strange. We were having so much fun that our evening continued into dinner and then across town for the midnight light show at the Eiffel Tower. We had a blast and we're so glad that these newlyweds were willing to interrupt their honeymooning to hang out with us.


friends, a bottle of wine, and a spot on the grass on the Champs de Mars: a perfect end to the evening



Day 4: Midnight light show

On Friday we started with one last visit to the ever-enchanting Eiffel Tower before running several errands in the Latin Quarter. This day is not very exciting since it was mostly about finding the last edition for our International Harry Potter Collection (3 bookstores and we still failed) and picking up some other items for our summer travel.





Our Top 10 book recommended the Latin Quarter for picnic supplies, and it would definitely be a great area if you wanted to find bread, meat, cheese, and fresh fruits. We were tempted by a 13 euro, 3-course prix fixe menu, however, because it offered all of our favorite dishes for so much less than we'd seen everywhere else. Goat cheese salad, French onion soup, boeuf bourguignon, duck confit, green beans, and creme brulee: the best French lunch ever! We mostly walked down Rue Monge between Cardinal Limoine and Place Monge metro stations - it was lovely, French, smelled delicious, cheaper than most places we'd been, and just off-the-beaten-path enough to feel local: the icing on the cake of our second trip to Paris.