Showing posts with label England. Show all posts
Showing posts with label England. Show all posts

Friday, January 2, 2015

Our Travel Adventure: a 2014 Wrap Up

I had intended to do this post sooner to when we returned to the States, but my perspective may actually be better now. This was the post as it would've been if I'd published it when we got home at the end of July:

"Let's talk about culture shock. Specifically, let's talk about reverse culture shock.

Less than 24 hours after return:
Everything is HUGE. And overwhelming. Joe is thrilled to be home but I'm not so sure. After 3.5 weeks traveling in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy, I really just wanted the short flight back to London and our tiny, tiny flat. 14+ hours of flying means everything feels weird when you land. LAX is my old stomping grounds - my uni and my old apartment are visible from the runways, but it still just felt weird.

Also, parking lots. I don't know why but these stick out for me. I haven't seen a real parking lot in almost a year. In London I often wondered where people who had cars ever put their cars when they were out. No parking lots, no parking structures, not even a lot of street parking. California is the opposite. All I see are massive parking lots in front of massive stores. Stores I have always loved (Target, Costco, Ikea) but still. Everything seems so HUGE right now. I was originally planning a visit to the mall but I've backed out because it sounds WAY too overwhelming."

So now that we've been home for 5 months, here is a look back at our adventure.


Time Away: 336 days

Countries Visited: 20

Visitors from Home: 5

Checkmarks on our London & Beyond List: 63/85

In case you need a refresher, here is our original list of goals:

Cities
Cambridge, England
Geneva, Switzerland
Normandy, France
Salzburg, Austria
Stratford-Upon-Avon, England
Wales (not sure where yet)

Tours & Activities
Abbey Road
Beatles landmark
Bike tour of a major city (HelsinkiBerlinParisBarcelonaMunich)
British Library (for research, believe it or not)
Buckingham Palace (kind of)
Charles Darwin landmark
Cider mill tour
Collect a set of British edition Harry Potters (pictures to come)
Collect an international set of multi-lingual Harry Potters (pictures to come)
Cooking class (Sarah - London, Budapest, Tuscany, Florence; together - London)
Debussy landmark (France)
Drive “British”
Flying Fantastic class
Go ice-skating
Hike 10+ miles somewhere
Holi festival
Issaac Newton landmark
Led Zeppelin landmark
live dramatic performance (Sarah in October, Joe & Sarah with Momstogether)
live orchestra performance (BerlinPragueLondonVienna)
live other sporting event (tennis, cricket, rugby)
live singer/band (Sarah - Vienna Teng; Joe - Steven Wilson of Porcupine Tree, YES!)
live soccer game
London Museum of Natural History
Pink Floyd landmark
Richard Dawkins event
See a live hockey game  (Winter Classic in LA in January)
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Take a spontaneous vacation (Paris - booked 5 days ahead)
Tate/Tate Modern
Travel by train (Flam, NorwayPrague; lots of times between cities)
Westminster Abbey (front only)
Winery tour

I'm quite proud of this list, actually. We didn't tick off every item, but what this list doesn't reflect is our shifting priorities the longer we were away. Certain items were completed multiple times or in ways that make me really proud. Some things were skipped because by the end we realized we didn't really care to make them a priority. Other items became priorities later on (cocktails in London, picnicking in Waterlow park, etc) but were never added to the official list.

We didn't just travel by train to say we did it, we travelled by train to get ourselves through Spain, and from Hungary to Austria to Germany, and all around Italy. We took miniature adventures every time we changed cities because we always did it without the convenience and comfort of a car. As native Southern Californians, that was a big deal. I'm proud of the way we adjusted to using public transportation.

I'm also proud that we took advantage of London - we went to museums, we tried things, we bought tickets to shows and performances, we saw advertisements on the Tube and then actually sought out those events and participated. We aren't big city people. Participating in the life of the city was a big deal.

Certain places were skipped because that was the pragmatic decision. Greece and Poland were cut before we even committed the list to paper. Switzerland was cut very early on. But what this list doesn't show is all of the places and items we added along the way. Barcelona was on the list, but in the process we also went to Seville and Cordoba and Granada. We cut Salzburg because of rain, but we added Scotland almost at the last minute and it was one of our most relaxing getaways. Brussels was almost cut but then we got to do it with Ryan when he visited, which was even better. I didn't go to Shakespeare's birthplace (Stratford), but I did go to his birthday party.

Since we've been back, one of the questions we get most often is What was your favorite part? Really, it depends on my mood. On different days, I miss different facets of this adventure. Memories of the many places we went and things we did are sparked constantly and I miss London every single day. I think that I will for the rest of my life.

It's hard to explain to people what a year away feels like. We slid back into our normal life again, and it was both harder and easier than I'd expected. We came back broke, so we lived separately with our mothers for almost 4 months before we were financially viable enough to get our own place again. On the other hand, I was back to work teaching high school full time only 3.5 weeks after we landed in California from Rome. Since I was still writing my dissertation for my MA program, it felt like I was living two different lives at once - my London life as a student was still going while my California life as a teacher was in full swing already. I spent August and September mentally and emotionally exhausted and overwhelmed. Being back in California felt both normal and completely uncomfortable at the same time. 

After spending nearly all of my time exclusively with my husband for more than 11 months, we were living apart and had to plan to see each other almost like when we started dating. The logistics of moving out of the country and then back in aren't what people talk about. In London, there were things about my life here that I missed every single day. Now that we're back, there are parts of the life we made there that I will miss every single day. (It doesn't help that I see bits of London in so many of the movies and TV shows I watch. Or maybe it does help. I'm not really sure.) Our life here picked up where we'd left off in a way that was almost seamless, but I feel different in my life now than I would have if we hadn't gone. Maybe that was the point.

I don't know what my favorite part of our year away was. I can't tell you which city was my favorite. Sometimes they all were. Sometimes I wish I could be eating in Budapest or sitting on the deck in Split or walking through the rain in Dublin and other times I'm happy to get good Mexican food and drive my car. Sometimes none of the places we visited compares to the one place we lived (and then I miss London so much I could cry). Sometimes the part I miss most is our friends (which was true in London, too). Sometimes I miss the impromptu visits to Brewdog on the way home from school. Sometimes it's British food and Camden High Street and sometimes it's the ride on the 214 and the walk from our bus stop to our little, little flat. In our three-story townhouse now, sometimes the 1700+ square feet feel like way too much and I miss our little one-bedroom home where the full-sized bed touched the walls on three sides. Sometimes I miss exploring a new city with Joe and having nothing on our schedule but whatever we wanted to see or do there that day. Sometimes I'm just happy to be home, doing a job I love (and missed terribly for 3 years), and living close enough to see friends we've had since high school. Sometimes the London Instagram feed features a picture that includes the 24 bus or Gower Street and I miss the life I had there so badly. Then I discover that I can get mocha lattes at Coffee Bean and I don't feel so far from London anymore. There's always been a travel Sarah that was more independent and spontaneous and brave than regular Sarah, and London brought me closer to merging the two. 

The adventure was big but it was also small. The parts I think about are bus rides and tea shops and restaurants we found in cities all over Europe. I think about the time I spent alone and feeling comfortable by myself for maybe the first time ever. I wouldn't go to the movies by myself here, but I did there and it made me feel independent. I think about all of the beauty and history and the way it mixed in with feeling lonely and cold and happy and brave and accomplished. I think about the fact that I wanted to go on a big adventure and that somehow, my husband and I actually did it.

The truth is, I don't know how to answer the small talk questions about our adventure. The whole experience is way too big for small talk answers. 

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

London: What I'll Miss

We have left Croatia and are now in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Since I don't want my last London posts to overlap too much with our current travel posts, I've gotta get this one out ASAP.

Right about the time I was drafting my post on homesickness, one of Joe's friends asked me what I would miss about London when we return to the States. At the time I grumbled/growled "Nothing. There's nothing here that I can't get better at home." I was, clearly, in no mood. But since then I've been thinking about it and I've come up with some things about my life in London that will change when I return to San Diego.

Stopping at Costa Coffee for a treat after class before I get on the bus going home.
This simple activity became part of an established routine on my two days of class each week. On days when the weather, the darkness, or the distance from home were weighing on me, this stop was something to look forward to. On days when I was feeling excited about living in a big, bustling city, this stop was part of a pattern that proved I had created a new life in London.

Public Transportation
Although I missed having a car occasionally, overall I really enjoyed using public transportation to get around London. The busses especially offer a low-stress way to get from place to place; instead of gripping a steering wheel and anxiously trying to make the most of every traffic light, once I boarded the bus I knew that my travel time was out of my hands and I could just relax. Since I don't really enjoy driving and I'd spent the two years before this commuting almost an hour each way for work, it was a relief to be able to read on my commute or even just take in the view. Busses allowed me to see a lot more of London and get a better idea of the jigsaw puzzle that makes up this elaborate cityscape. Whenever it was reasonable, Joe and I always chose busses over the tube for this reason.

our local bus at our neighborhood stop

busses in Trafalgar Square, Big Ben in the distance

My Abel & Cole delivery/Graze snacks
Having fresh, organic, in-season, local, and healthy food delivered to our door every week was awesome. Our Abel & Cole boxes pushed me to try new things as a cook and Graze gave us healthy snack alternatives to candy and chips. I know we can sign up for a CSA at home and that Graze actually exists in the USA also, but I'll miss the British versions.



Quick and Easy travel to what Americans often call "All over the world!"
London to Dublin takes about an hour and costs about $60. I booked trips to Paris less than a month in advance twice. I booked a two week trip around Spain about three weeks ahead. Flying to Croatia was direct, cheap, and took about 2 hours. If I didn't like the flight times/prices at one airport, there were 3 others to chose from. We travelled to Scotland exclusively by train (Paris and Brussels, too) and it took only a few hours. Oh, and no time change (or really minor ones) means no jetlag on arrival. Priceless.



Downton Abbey & Sherlock
I may have had to watch ALL other television on Hulu, but I got Downton Abbey and Sherlock before all of y'all and it was awesome.

Sherlock pub quiz team, We're Bringing Reichenback

The novelty of actually living in a world-recognized city, among history. (I go to Regent Street for the Apple Store...)
There were definitely moments throughout the year when we'd realize that we were living among history. No, we didn't hang out in central London much and it took until nearly the end of our time in London to actually do the touristy things. But I can't explain what it feels like to make plans with a friend and realize that your commute there means you'll be getting out a London Bridge tube stop or walking across Tower Bridge to meet up. Euston Station (which is what J. K. Rowling was actually picturing when she wrote the King's Cross scenes in Harry Potter) was my tube station for school. We went to Baker Street mostly for the Chipotle. My T.K. Maxx store was in Covent Garden. Oh, and we could see the London Eye from our neighborhood every day. Besides the recognizable names and sites, there is just so much to do and see in this metropolis. When we arrived, it was exciting to sign up for Time Out and the Londonist and try to make plans to do and see as much as we could. The posters on the sides of busses and in the tube were like big signs that said "OPPORTUNITY." I also feel like living in a big city meant that we were more willing to travel further for the things we wanted to do. We both hope that this translates to a willingness to use public transportation (though limited) in San Diego when there are things in downtown that we want to do but write off as being too far to drive.

Apple Store on Regent Street


Charlotte Street, one of our favorite places in London 
Tower Bridge, 9 pm, June 2014

Cider, cider, everywhere
I don't drink beer and I don't always want wine or a cocktail, but I do enjoy cider and for once in my life I could get it pretty much everywhere we went. This made tagging along with Joe when he wanted to drink craft beer much easier. Beer bars are much more likely to have cider than they are to have wine. Remember Cider Tap, the partner to Euston Tap? It was like these twin businesses were designed for Joe and I.



Reading like it's my job (because it's my job)
I may not have enjoyed everything we read for my master's program, but I did enjoy being back in school this year. I miss teaching and am looking forward to getting back to it, but getting to spend a year reading out of my comfort zone has been good. These last few months especially have been fun because I have finally been able to choose my reading based on background and research for my dissertation. Re-read the Hunger Games (twice)? Yes, please. Read the Divergent series and the Matched series and the Handmaid's Tale all as research? I don't mind if I do. Oh and the Giver and Lord of the Flies and a whole bunch of other literature that I enjoy every minute of, because it's my job to do this. It's research. I love it.

Exclusive time with my husband
And finally, the best thing about this year has been the time that Joe and I have had together. Some people thought we were crazy to move abroad during our first year of marriage, but trial by fire has worked for us. Back home we worked opposite schedules and lived in different cities for almost half of the time we were dating; our tiny London flat, flexible schedules, and intense travel have pushed our relationship to a new level. We joke that we've condensed three or four years of marriage into one. I know that going home doesn't mean that this necessarily ends, but the re-introduction of friends and family into our daily lives means that our alone time will be naturally diluted and going back to work means that I won't be able to stay up until 4 am because I want to eat dinner with Joe when he gets home from a closing shift at 2:30. This year has been intense in a lot of ways, but it has also given us the flexibility to spend a lot of time together and I will always be grateful for that. Over and over again throughout the last year we have agreed that this adventure was the right choice for us and we are so, so glad we did it.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On our last night in London, we had a get-together at BrewDog Camden (our favorite local spot) for one more evening of fun, games, and socializing with all of the wonderful people we met in our 10 months living there. The night was emotional and surreal and we feel incredibly lucky to have spent this year making so many new friendships that we hope will last a lifetime. Since I don't have many pictures to go with the above post about what I'll miss in London, I'll include pictures from our Going Away party too.

with Emily playing games

Jen, Sherwin, Tammela, and Laura (the other side of the table)

with Rebecca

Tammela & Fabian

with Kieran


Tash, Anneste, Nicolo, and Jimmy

Ineta & Nicolo (plus Jimmy)

Saturday, July 5, 2014

The Making of Harry Potter

First off: Croatia is amazing. We've been here for 5 days and I can't wait to share pictures.

But first there's a little bit of London business leftover that I want to get on here before too long. We may have left London on July 1, but seeing as we don't have anywhere else to call home just yet, I'm still going to write about London.

One of the last major items on our London List was the Warner Bros studio set tour of the Making of Harry Potter. We dropped several London sights off our priorities in June, but this was non-negotiable. We finally booked our tour on June 16 and we travelled to the studio in Leavesden in this super-touristy converted double-decker:


The studio could have gone only two ways: boring/lame and totally awesome. Unsurprisingly, it was the latter. Now, after ten months of me taking and posting LOTS of pictures of Joe with beers (that all look exactly the same even if they taste totally different), it was Joe's turn to take pictures of me being ridiculously excited about every new set and prop. As we entered the building, I even warned him: I might cry.


The cabinet under the stairs was only in the queue leading into the sets. No, the real tour starts BIG.



The doors to the Great Hall! I don't know what I expected, but I was shocked over and over by how HUGE the sets were and how REAL it all felt. Plus there were all kinds of details that I'd never noticed in the films, like the fact that every one of the torches in the Great Hall is in the form of one of the four house animals and every statue is different.

Two of the house tables were left set for a meal and there were costumes from each house around the room, including Cedric Diggory/Robert Pattinson's Triwizard Tournament uniform, Harry/Daniel Radcliffe's first Gryffindor Robes, and costumes for each of the teachers at the Head Table.



Beyond the Great Hall were several other sets including the boys' dormitory, Gryffindor common room, the kitchen of the Burrow, Hagrid's hut, the Potions dungeon/classroom, and Dumbledore's entire two-story office.


the underside of Harry's invisibility cloak made of green screen
so that it could be graphically enhanced in post production

the entrance to Dumbledore's office; the password is lemon drop
This area also included an abundance of props, including all of the horcruxes, dozens of wands, Molly Weasley's family clock, the doors to the Chamber of Secrets and a few Gringott's vaults, and many paper items. I was struck by the fact that Rita Skeeter's The Life and Lies of Albus Dumbledore is a real-life paperback book.


Beyond this area is an outdoor space between studios that includes some of the larger sets. The Night Bus, Hogwarts Bridge, and both Privet Drive and the Potter's house from Godric's Hollow are in this area. There is also a stand where you can buy Butter Beer, one of only two locations in the world.





The next section of the tour includes architecture, art, blueprints, and animatronics. The animatronic Buckbeak was moving the entire time.


The last section before the most amazing store I've ever been in was the model of Hogwarts used in wide shots of the school. It was magical.




This year has been fueled by Harry Potter all along. The paper I wrote that gained me entry to UCL was about the series. The Harry Potter conference I attended in Scotland in 2012 made me confident I could handle moving to the UK. Throughout our travels we have collected multi-lingual editions of the series as well as a special British edition. In Edinburgh, we visited the cafe where Rowling wrote much of the first books. It should come as a shock to no one that we were inclined to buy wands or that I proudly sport my Ravenclaw shirt (the House to which I was assigned by the Sorting Hat on Pottermore; Joe is a Gryffindor mostly because I say so).

Charlie and Bert joined the Order of the Phoenix! They also met their idol, Fawkes!

the Elder Wand
The details on the wands were one of our favorite parts of the tour. Every character's wand is totally different - unique in color, shape, design, and even weight. Even Fred and George Weasley, whose wands are sold as a set, have completely different designs. Molly Weasley's is very practical. Narcissa Malfoy's is highly decorative. Sometimes the design is reflective of the character, but sometimes it isn't. For someone like me who loves personalization and detail, this was just one more feature of the films for me to love.

I love this series and the movies that helped bring it to life, so being on the sets was somewhat surreal and overwhelming. Even Joe was impressed with the tour and the authenticity of everything we saw. I didn't cry, but I could have. A big Thank You to my colleagues at Diego Hills who gave us this gift for our wedding last year - it was an amazing day.

Just one more, for the road:



Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Mexican Food a la London

The cardinal rule of Mexican food in London (and possibly in Europe in general): Don't get your hopes up.

From what I'd read before we moved here, I knew that Mexican food and good, American-style pizza would be hard gets around here. We gave up on pizza a couple months back. We can find tasty pizza, it's just not American pizza. Mexican food is another story. We keep hearing about great places and getting recommendations from friends and getting REALLY excited to finally get a taste of our SoCal home, only to be sorely disappointed when we realize that our non-SoCal friends have no idea what they're talking about when it come to good Mexican food.

We have spent almost ten months in London. Here is what we have found (from worst to best):

6. Lupita
Visited in March 2014
Don't be fooled by the claim that Lupita is an "authentic Mexican taqueria in London." It's awful. We were so excited about this place that we traveled 45 minutes by bus just for dinner. Before our food arrived, we were already planning what items we wanted to try on our second visit. Oh, how foolish that seems now. Maybe we should have taken the guy at the next table eating his street tacos with a knife and fork as a sign that this was not the place we were looking for. Alas, we were too excited to recognize the signs.

Positives: On the way, we discovered Tortilla, a Chipotle-style taco shop (see #2).

Negatives: chips were too thick, guacamole and salsa were flavorless, cheese was disgusting (and smelled like feet), and every single ingredient just felt OFF


bean tacos that had about half a cup of flavorless refried black beans on them
See that? That's a triangle of English cheddar in a quesadilla. It was so gross I couldn't even eat it.

5. Cafe Chula
Visited in April 2014
Cafe Chula was significantly better than Lupita. Located in Camden, it was only a fifteen minute bus ride for us, which was a plus. However, halfway through our meal Joe gave me the saddest look of defeat and just said, "I think we should give up."

Positives: Location, drinks.

Negatives: Again, the flavors were just off. The cheese and peppers aren't right, and the seasonings are just not as intense as they should be.


4. Benito's Hat
Visited in June 2014
This is a Chipotle-style restaurant that we found in King's Cross station, though I believe there are several locations in London. The chips were good and so was the burrita (a smaller version of a burrito). The braised pork I had was tasty, though the bland rice and raw white onions somewhat interrupted that. They did serve Jarritos sodas, though. If we were staying longer, this one would rate a second attempt wherein I order tacos or something that doesn't come with rice inside.


Positives: Meat flavors

Negatives: One of my go-to salt beef sandwich places is about 50 yards away and the KERB street market is around the corner on most weekdays at lunch. In other words, there are better options a Kings Cross.


3. Home-Cooked
This is possibly unfair to include since I brought my taco seasoning packets from California and have not tried what is available at my London grocery.

shredded pork tacos (that I didn't cook long enough, so they didn't shred)

ground beef tacos
Positives: Bringing the seasonings from home means it tastes the way I think it should. Mission tortillas are available in the store, but good tortilla chips are difficult to find and nothing comes close to the fresh tortillas from Casa de Bandini in Carlsbad.

Negatives: the "Mexican orange cheese" at Sainsbury's is a bit weird but is our best option. Also, condiements such as sour(ed) cream, salsa, and guacamole are hard to come by in pre-made form, unless you're up for the squeezee bottles they sell (unrefrigerated) next to the taco shells.



2. Tortilla
Visited in April 2014
Located just across from Trafalgar Square, Tortilla is a great stop if you're going to the National Gallery or the National Portrait Gallery. You can see Big Ben down the street and it's near Charing Cross tube station. Basically, this California-style taco shop scores aces in the location department. Joe and I smelled this place on our way to Lupita and vowed to come back for it, even (and maybe especially) after that attempt was such a disaster. Notice that Tortilla advertises itself as "Real California burritos and tacos," which, let's be honest, is what we're really looking for.

The restaurant is casual, a Chipotle or Pei Wei-esque system of ordering at a counter and then having the food delivered to your table is in operation, which works. I got carnitas soft tacos and they were delicious, if a little too juicy. In fact, they smelled so good that I forgot to take a picture.

stolen from the website but still surprisingly accurate

Positives: All the flavors were spot on and the location is great for touristy things.

Negatives: Too far from our flat to be a regular place and the order-at-the-counter system means we're still lacking a good sit-down Mexican restaurant. Also, like Chipotle, the menu is very limited.


1. Wahaca
First visit in November 2013
Wahaca is good enough that Joe and I have actually taken other Southern Californians out there. I had read about this restaurant before coming to London and knew we'd try it at some point, though I was a bit reluctant to go somewhere that completely bastardized the spelling of "Oaxaca." Our first try was at the location in Southbank near the BFI IMAX theatre, but mostly we frequent Charlotte Street since it's near my school and is one of our favorite parts of London.

Positives: The menu is varied enough and it's a real, sit-down restaurant. The drinks are good, and the tapas-sized dishes mean you can try several items without feeling like you're making a big commitment to just one flavor. We love the chicken taquitos, pork pibil tacos, and the black beans especially.

perfectly crispy shells and flavorful filling



Negatives: None really. I don't necessarily approve of British-y items like herring or sweet potatoes on a Mexican food menu, but I don't have to order them.


Of course, there is still Chipotle here in London as well and we have visited more than a couple times. We made a trek to the one on Baker Street during our first few days in London when we were desperately craving a taste of home, and we've visited the ones in Leicester Square and Covent Garden as well. I think there are 6 total (or at least there were when the first Mexican food craving hit me when we were in Prague and hadn't yet arrived in London).

#mexicanamericanembassy

Let it suffice to say that I am excited about getting home to some real SoCal-style Mexican food. Miguel's is high on my list of must-visits when we get back, but there has been many a-time this year when I would have been equally as excited for El Torito.