Friday, January 2, 2015

Our Travel Adventure: a 2014 Wrap Up

I had intended to do this post sooner to when we returned to the States, but my perspective may actually be better now. This was the post as it would've been if I'd published it when we got home at the end of July:

"Let's talk about culture shock. Specifically, let's talk about reverse culture shock.

Less than 24 hours after return:
Everything is HUGE. And overwhelming. Joe is thrilled to be home but I'm not so sure. After 3.5 weeks traveling in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy, I really just wanted the short flight back to London and our tiny, tiny flat. 14+ hours of flying means everything feels weird when you land. LAX is my old stomping grounds - my uni and my old apartment are visible from the runways, but it still just felt weird.

Also, parking lots. I don't know why but these stick out for me. I haven't seen a real parking lot in almost a year. In London I often wondered where people who had cars ever put their cars when they were out. No parking lots, no parking structures, not even a lot of street parking. California is the opposite. All I see are massive parking lots in front of massive stores. Stores I have always loved (Target, Costco, Ikea) but still. Everything seems so HUGE right now. I was originally planning a visit to the mall but I've backed out because it sounds WAY too overwhelming."

So now that we've been home for 5 months, here is a look back at our adventure.


Time Away: 336 days

Countries Visited: 20

Visitors from Home: 5

Checkmarks on our London & Beyond List: 63/85

In case you need a refresher, here is our original list of goals:

Cities
Cambridge, England
Geneva, Switzerland
Normandy, France
Salzburg, Austria
Stratford-Upon-Avon, England
Wales (not sure where yet)

Tours & Activities
Abbey Road
Beatles landmark
Bike tour of a major city (HelsinkiBerlinParisBarcelonaMunich)
British Library (for research, believe it or not)
Buckingham Palace (kind of)
Charles Darwin landmark
Cider mill tour
Collect a set of British edition Harry Potters (pictures to come)
Collect an international set of multi-lingual Harry Potters (pictures to come)
Cooking class (Sarah - London, Budapest, Tuscany, Florence; together - London)
Debussy landmark (France)
Drive “British”
Flying Fantastic class
Go ice-skating
Hike 10+ miles somewhere
Holi festival
Issaac Newton landmark
Led Zeppelin landmark
live dramatic performance (Sarah in October, Joe & Sarah with Momstogether)
live orchestra performance (BerlinPragueLondonVienna)
live other sporting event (tennis, cricket, rugby)
live singer/band (Sarah - Vienna Teng; Joe - Steven Wilson of Porcupine Tree, YES!)
live soccer game
London Museum of Natural History
Pink Floyd landmark
Richard Dawkins event
See a live hockey game  (Winter Classic in LA in January)
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Take a spontaneous vacation (Paris - booked 5 days ahead)
Tate/Tate Modern
Travel by train (Flam, NorwayPrague; lots of times between cities)
Westminster Abbey (front only)
Winery tour

I'm quite proud of this list, actually. We didn't tick off every item, but what this list doesn't reflect is our shifting priorities the longer we were away. Certain items were completed multiple times or in ways that make me really proud. Some things were skipped because by the end we realized we didn't really care to make them a priority. Other items became priorities later on (cocktails in London, picnicking in Waterlow park, etc) but were never added to the official list.

We didn't just travel by train to say we did it, we travelled by train to get ourselves through Spain, and from Hungary to Austria to Germany, and all around Italy. We took miniature adventures every time we changed cities because we always did it without the convenience and comfort of a car. As native Southern Californians, that was a big deal. I'm proud of the way we adjusted to using public transportation.

I'm also proud that we took advantage of London - we went to museums, we tried things, we bought tickets to shows and performances, we saw advertisements on the Tube and then actually sought out those events and participated. We aren't big city people. Participating in the life of the city was a big deal.

Certain places were skipped because that was the pragmatic decision. Greece and Poland were cut before we even committed the list to paper. Switzerland was cut very early on. But what this list doesn't show is all of the places and items we added along the way. Barcelona was on the list, but in the process we also went to Seville and Cordoba and Granada. We cut Salzburg because of rain, but we added Scotland almost at the last minute and it was one of our most relaxing getaways. Brussels was almost cut but then we got to do it with Ryan when he visited, which was even better. I didn't go to Shakespeare's birthplace (Stratford), but I did go to his birthday party.

Since we've been back, one of the questions we get most often is What was your favorite part? Really, it depends on my mood. On different days, I miss different facets of this adventure. Memories of the many places we went and things we did are sparked constantly and I miss London every single day. I think that I will for the rest of my life.

It's hard to explain to people what a year away feels like. We slid back into our normal life again, and it was both harder and easier than I'd expected. We came back broke, so we lived separately with our mothers for almost 4 months before we were financially viable enough to get our own place again. On the other hand, I was back to work teaching high school full time only 3.5 weeks after we landed in California from Rome. Since I was still writing my dissertation for my MA program, it felt like I was living two different lives at once - my London life as a student was still going while my California life as a teacher was in full swing already. I spent August and September mentally and emotionally exhausted and overwhelmed. Being back in California felt both normal and completely uncomfortable at the same time. 

After spending nearly all of my time exclusively with my husband for more than 11 months, we were living apart and had to plan to see each other almost like when we started dating. The logistics of moving out of the country and then back in aren't what people talk about. In London, there were things about my life here that I missed every single day. Now that we're back, there are parts of the life we made there that I will miss every single day. (It doesn't help that I see bits of London in so many of the movies and TV shows I watch. Or maybe it does help. I'm not really sure.) Our life here picked up where we'd left off in a way that was almost seamless, but I feel different in my life now than I would have if we hadn't gone. Maybe that was the point.

I don't know what my favorite part of our year away was. I can't tell you which city was my favorite. Sometimes they all were. Sometimes I wish I could be eating in Budapest or sitting on the deck in Split or walking through the rain in Dublin and other times I'm happy to get good Mexican food and drive my car. Sometimes none of the places we visited compares to the one place we lived (and then I miss London so much I could cry). Sometimes the part I miss most is our friends (which was true in London, too). Sometimes I miss the impromptu visits to Brewdog on the way home from school. Sometimes it's British food and Camden High Street and sometimes it's the ride on the 214 and the walk from our bus stop to our little, little flat. In our three-story townhouse now, sometimes the 1700+ square feet feel like way too much and I miss our little one-bedroom home where the full-sized bed touched the walls on three sides. Sometimes I miss exploring a new city with Joe and having nothing on our schedule but whatever we wanted to see or do there that day. Sometimes I'm just happy to be home, doing a job I love (and missed terribly for 3 years), and living close enough to see friends we've had since high school. Sometimes the London Instagram feed features a picture that includes the 24 bus or Gower Street and I miss the life I had there so badly. Then I discover that I can get mocha lattes at Coffee Bean and I don't feel so far from London anymore. There's always been a travel Sarah that was more independent and spontaneous and brave than regular Sarah, and London brought me closer to merging the two. 

The adventure was big but it was also small. The parts I think about are bus rides and tea shops and restaurants we found in cities all over Europe. I think about the time I spent alone and feeling comfortable by myself for maybe the first time ever. I wouldn't go to the movies by myself here, but I did there and it made me feel independent. I think about all of the beauty and history and the way it mixed in with feeling lonely and cold and happy and brave and accomplished. I think about the fact that I wanted to go on a big adventure and that somehow, my husband and I actually did it.

The truth is, I don't know how to answer the small talk questions about our adventure. The whole experience is way too big for small talk answers. 

Last Stop on the Italy Train: Rome

Traveling with 6 people and 11 suitcases (plus purses/backpacks) is a challenge. Traveling by train is a challenge. However, once you make it onto the train with all those people and all those bags, it's a relief and feels pretty awesome.









I have said before that I'm not a big fan of capital cities in general. Our year of capital-hopping did improve my outlook on these over-crowded, over-touristy, over-everything destinations, but I'm afraid Rome still falls into the category of Not-My-Favorite. This visit was perhaps the best of my three trips to Rome, but that had a lot to do with the company.

Janis had very few requests for this vacation, but a steadfast one was a chance to take her kids to the Vatican. I figured that was as good a place as any to centralize our stay, so this was the view from our hotel.

Well hello there, St. Peter's 

We were even able to walk over for a night view:

Since my mom and I had both been to the Vatican museums (twice) and St. Peter's Basilica (twice), we decided to split from the group and take a walking food tour in Testaccio, a Roman neighborhood known for cucina romana, while the others visited Vatican City. (Favorite quote from Rome: "What time does Vatican City open?" Since it's a country, that's basically like asking, "What time does Argentina open?")

Our food tour had many stops from bakeries to butchers to gelaterias, but what made it memorable was unfortunately not the food, but the pouring rain. For the third time during our vacation, we were hit with a freak rain storm characterized by booming thunder, flooded streets, and two soaking wet travelers. This was not the environment for a walking tour, especially once we started wading through calf-deep water in order to cross the street. It was a memorable experience, but definitely not my favorite food tour. (Under different circumstances, I think it could have been amazing and is definitely worth booking if you are not going to be rained out.)




Meanwhile, the others were inside until the sun came out and dried up all the rain, literally. Here we are at the Vatican (and possibly being a little inappropriate with a statue of Pope John Paul II). I've been to Rome three times and each time there has been a different pope - John Paul II, Benedict XVI, and now Francis.






After their Vatican tour, we headed out to Piazza Navona, home to my favorite fountain, Bernini's Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers). This fountain represents the major rivers on each of the four continents that had been touched by papal influence by the mid-seventeenth century. They were the Nile (Africa), Ganges (Asia), Danube (Europe), and Rio de la Plata (America). My favorite part is the Nile; Bernini chose to cover the face with cloth because at the time no one knew where the river started.


the Ganges river god
Our evening began with a walk through the city and included a visit to my favorite gelateria in the world: Il Gelato di San Crispino next to the Pantheon.








San Crispino boasts flavors like cinnamon ginger, rum chocolate, and malpighi (balsamic vinegar), as well as more traditional flavors like stracciatella (chocolate chip), hazelnut, and pistachio. It was also mentioned in Elizabeth Gilbert's most famous book, Eat, Pray, Love. If you are in Rome, it is a crime not to visit.

we went twice!

The next day Julie and Val wanted to see the Colosseum. The rest of us took a walk and got a delicious lunch.







Our last major stop was another Roman must-see, the Pantheon.




groupie with the Pantheon's most identifiable feature: the oculus in the dome
It was hot and we were tired. Time for fun with fountains!

teaching the new tourists about Roman drinking fountains near Circus Maximus

in front of the the Pantheon

imitating the fountain in front of the Pantheon

Italy, as always, was beautiful, welcoming, and delicious, but we were ready to go home. Thank you, Janis, for an amazing vacation!


It was time to take a break from travel adventures, which we did for exactly one day before heading up to Sacramento for a wedding. Then we really settled back in and didn't leave San Diego for 5 months. More on our Hawaiian Christmas soon.

The Colosseum looks like a nest!